The whole point of the book is that instead of trying to make design “less bad” by awkwardly retrofitting existing models and designs we should aim for a product that is so “good” that not only does it not contribute to the degradation of the earth but it nourishes and gives back to it’s environment – like a tree.

Copenhagen Sustainable Fashion Show Inspiration

The authors outline two different types of product which are explained in more detail here: A product of service and a product of consumption.

A product of consumption is defined as “Products [which] typically dissipate into the environment through the course of their use. They are designed so their degradation products (which result from digestion, abrasion, dilution in air, water or soil, etc.) can support the biological systems they reach. As defined biological nutrients, they are absorbed by and further nourish organisms and ecosystems.” One general example the authors give in the book is a running shoe whose sole is made of some harmless biodegradeable material which enriches the soil as it abrades.

What would this look like if we’re talking about clothing? The 2009 Copenhagen Sustainable Fashion Show made some interesting inroads. Many designers approached the problem of sustainability by making nontoxic clothes designed to compost quickly. There was a lingerie line embedded with seeds designed for burial and cultivation, clothes made from biodegradable jersey, and a few designers chose to use a “fabric” made from biodegradable vegetable starch, designed to compost after 3 or so wears.

Apocalyptic but poetic

{BTW – the images for this post were created as inspiration by the winner of the show, Tobias Noe Harboe. Harboe created a story wherein 6 scientists from a desolate future travel back in time to try to alter the destructive course the industrial revolution sets into motion. Kind of apocalyptic, but also kind of Alice in Wonderland, right?}

What about fashion as a product of service? “Products of service are typically stable during their use. They are made of defined technical nutrients. After use, they are available again as defined technical nutrients after mechanical or chemical dismantling. Tracking and collecting products of service for technical nutrient recovery is assured by their inclusion in a service concept sales model. Under this model, the retailer of the product of service sells only the service the product provides and leases the materials which provide that service to the customer.”

we want to avoid this "cradle to grave" scenario

This is really great for consumers because it totally removes the responsibility of proper disposal. The company takes responsibility for its product from start to finish. Fashion as a product of service (POS) already sort of exists in some ways. Tuxedo and handbag rental services, for instance. Other companies such as Gap and Patagonia encourage you to bring in your old garments to the store. Gap is currently offering a promotion where if you bring in a pair of your old jeans, you’ll get 30% off a new pair. I don’t know what Gap is planning on doing with the jeans they get(*update – yes I do – they’re recycling them into insulation for homes in communities in need), but Patagonia, through its Common Threads program, has developed a recycling campaign for polyester fleece, where it actually recycles the fleece garments customers return to the store into new clothing.

k - these images aren't exactly uplifting, I know...

The bottom line is that for a truly sustainable POS, the product has to be pre-designed so that after the manufacturer reclaims it, the components are able to be recycled into a new product, ad infinitum, cradle to cradle to cradle. So taking the product back is only half of the model. The other half is reusing or recrafting it.

Has anyone else heard of other innovations in fashion as a product of service? Please share!

Also, I want to welcome our newest team member at Green By Design – Mira Torres will now be the voice behind all of our social media. Join the conversation at our Twitter and Facebook! Till Friday! XO!

De Haro by Remade

1. This is such an interesting concept! Would you mind sharing a little about your business model?

Basically, I find used, unwanted leather clothing and scraps and turn it into bags, using as many of the jacket details as possible. Each bag is one-of-a-kind. I sell on my website and to Barneys Coop.

2. How and where does production occur?

I’m a tiny company, so everything is made in my workshop – I have a couple of assistants who help with the sewing, but I design and touch every bag that is made.

3. What are some of the challenges/advantages of using recycled clothing as your material?

Every jacket that I receive is different (style, size, color), but that keeps it interesting and challenging – every bag that is made requires careful consideration and thought. Sometimes I get jackets that are dirty or musty – a challenge, but I’ve come up with ways of cleaning them. Some jackets are stained or worn more than others – which I actually think give the bag its character and make it so much more interesting than the perfectly stitched and replicated, brand new, “made in China” bags you will find in most department stores.

Alameda Clutch by Remade USA

4. How did you become interested in sustainable fashion – was there a defining moment, a key article or conversation?

I didn’t know it to be “sustainable fashion” at the time, but a few years ago, I met and heard Alex Steffan of Worldchanging.com speak and was very inspired – as well as seeing Chris Jordan’s “Portraits of Mass Consumption”…. I was embarrassed at the time, because I was making laptop bags in Asia from PVC. It was a good business for me, but I had no emotional connection to the products, nor did I feel very proud of them. They were made far away, by foreign hands. I have a real sense of pride in making something by hand, as well as engaging with my customers, who are usually so appreciative of what I do.

I spent a long time searching for environmentally sustainable materials, but couldn’t find any that were as durable (a very important sustainability trait) or luxurious or held its value like leather does… yet, as a vegetarian, I didn’t feel good about supporting the slaughter of animals. Used leather was really my only option.

5. Here’s a quote I came across in my research:

“‘It is only when a products meaning is firmly anchored in its materiality, that it can not be replaced at any time by another artifact with the same immaterial connotations. Things should direct attention towards themselves instead of just being a material embodiment of meaning.’ (Verbeek, P. Source: Hinte, E. 1997: 105) It is in this way that handmade objects can be more durable than those of mass-production. They have an intrinsic value: one that is centred on its materiality; any non-material connotations are directly related to the object’s material substance or its production. With such a direct link between object and meaning, the physical substance of the object becomes just as important as the connotations behind it: they are dependent on each other. Thus creating a physical attachment between user and product and in doing so improving the product’s durability. ‘ (Robert Hankey)

It definitely seems like Remade operates in a similar spirit. How does sentimentality and materiality inform/guide your work?

One of the most direct examples of sentimentality is when a customer sends me their jacket to be made into a bag. I have not had one customer send me a jacket that has not told me it’s history. Common themes are “long ago trips to Italy”, “belonged to a father or another loved one”. When I’ve talked to people, most have an article (or several) of clothing in their closets that they just cannot give away and it remains there as a reminder of a person or a time in their life, experiences. I find the stories give a product so much more value and importance than a brand new, store bought product. Materially, I always take into consideration the details of the jacket. I use pockets whenever possible.

Fillmore by Remade USA

6. What is one of the most rewarding/challenging moments Remade has experienced?

I love hearing back from customers when they receive the bag… I love the stories and to know that someone has such an appreciation for a bag that I’ve made them and that they will probably keep it forever – I’d love for my bags to become heirlooms with stories attached to them.

7. Why did you decide on sustainability as one of your principle values? What were your goals when you started?

I didn’t want to produce anything that might be damaging to the environment or that took advantage of the people making it. I also wanted to support local workers.

8. What do you think are some of the more major/directional developments in sustainable fashion right now?

Reuse, organic materials, recycled materials… I think reuse is the best option because there is no energy involved in manufacturing the material. it has already been developed and you are likely saving it from landfill or at least prolonging its life.

Mason Oxblood Clutch by Remade USA

9. Any designers you look to as role models/ leaders in the industry?

I don’t look at fashion for inspiration, my designs are very basic shapes that are inspired by ideas, function and material – and using waste scraps – thus the patchwork. I am however very inspired by Alabama Chanin’s business model and as I grow, I’d love to expand in that direction.

10. What are some obstacles in the fashion industry to going completely “green”?

People need to stay in business and they need people to buy new things every season. If fashion(trend) lasts a lifetime, it’s not really fashion, it’s more style. Quote from Coco Chanel: “Fashion fades, only style remains the same.” A completely green fashion industry might look like one where people bring their clothing (or drapes!) to a taylor to get fixed or repurposed each season or every couple years… imagine fashion as a “service” and no longer a product… also look at Molly Ringwald in Pretty in Pink or Scarlet O’Hara in Gone With the Wind…

Vintage scarves are used as lining!

11. If you could change one thing about your potential customer (the modern consumer of fashion in general) what would it be?

Stop buying cheap fast, discardable fashion. Buy things that last and support designers who put their heart into their work.

12. Personally, I entered the field of fashion thinking it was completely superfluous and decorative. My opinion has definitely changed. What do you think makes fashion important and significant – for you personally and for humanity in general?

I’m fascinated by how people’s personality and beliefs can be projected through their clothing choices – it’s very tribal. I think it only makes sense that sustainable fashion is gaining ground at a time when we are more concerned with the environment and what we eat than ever. There will be people who support sustainable fashion because it truly reflects their beliefs and there will be others who will buy a few key pieces because they signify that they are supporters in some way to this “conscious” way of living.

I can’t help but see parallels to William Morris’ Arts and Crafts movement in response to the Industrial Revolution. Our constant attachment to computers and the mass production and mass marketing of everything we consume is giving people a yearning for a slower way of living, eating, etc.

13. Do you have a favorite piece of clothing that you love, but no one else seems to “get”?

I love occasional vintage pieces because they are unique, inexpensive and usually made well, and can have memories attached – even if it is new to me, I still have a time reference associated with it. I have this awesome sequin butterfly top that I got at GoodWill in Queens, NY for $10 a few years ago… as soon as I saw it, I had a flashback to when I was about ten years old in the 80s, at a New Years Eve party with my parents and this glamourous friend of my mom’s was wearing a top very similar! The top always makes me feel glamourous! I also found an awesome little brown suede vest in my jacket searches – my mom calls it my “Howdy Doody vest”… I really love it!

14. What do you think the definition of “personal style” is?

Personal Style is the lasting image that a person crafts for their self. It has nothing to do with the trends of the season. It is about knowing what looks good on you and what makes you shine… from clothes to makeup and hair. It comes from within and is never a replica of what you see in a magazine. It complements your personality.

gorgeous

15. Sustainable fashion is definitely gaining momentum as a pivotal idea in fashion, but isn’t quite there yet. What frustrates you about the progress of sustainable fashion? On a more positive note, what are some steps forward you’ve noticed the industry take?

I don’t think the major fashion magazines are taking it very seriously (though it might be because there is not enough beautifully designed, sustainable clothes?) or that there is not as much money behind the brands as the big fashion houses. I don’t quite understand these designers who have their normal, “unsustainable” line and then they have a smaller, green line – it gives them press, but it seems like green washing to me. I find it awesome that sustainable fashion really is becoming its own movement – there are so many awesome blogs devoted to it and now “green” fashion weeks happening in NY and Portland…

Thanks so much for your thoughtful answers, Shannon! You’re our new handbag destination. BTW – You can also find Remade on Twitter and Facebook.

Recently, wandering around the webosphere, we stumbled upon a treasure trove of flea market oddities, stylish ensembles for the well dressed man, and the occasional post on (un)fashion. Intrigued, we got ahold of the blog’s author Cruz and were delighted to score an interview with a stylish, vintage-lovin’ mind! Cruz takes pictures of his forays into the flea market madness that is Long Beach, as well as posts outfit shots that make us rethink our previous assessment of menswear as, well, a teeny bit boring. Denim on Denim has definitely been added to our blogroll and daily reads! Thanks Cruz!

Cruz has style we envy.

1. Tell us about Denim on Denim and how you were inspired to start. And a little bit about yourself! Why is your style so awesome?
Well for starters I’m 17, I’m from Orange County, and I’m a junior in high school. I was inspired to start Denim on Denim because I wanted to share my point of view on fashion and style. I also wanted to take part in the online fashion community after reading the blogs of kids my age whose style I admired. I’m sure many suburban bloggers can relate to my unrequited love with fashion!
2. Who do you think are the great leaders/directional houses in fashion today?
I’ve always considered Nicolas Ghesquiere [of Balenciaga] to be one of those designers that designs for tomorrow, today. Miuccia Prada also seems to be able to make the fashion crowd move every which way with her collections.

Eagle boots - nice find!

3. What percentage of your clothes would you say are second-hand or pre-loved?
Definitely the majority of it!

4.  What attracts you to the flea market?
It’s a place with lots of inspiration, propositions, history, and bargains (which is great for someone on a shoestring budget like me). I’ve always seen them as a kind of junkyard of things that an alien race would have salvaged from our post-apocalyptic earth. You can find just about anything you need from anywhere and any time in history if you look hard enough!

A nice little slice of Americana

4. A lot of our readers are guys. What are some tips in terms of developing a personal style or look?
I think the best advice I can give for developing your own personal style is just to think about what you can add to your look that nobody else can. Your personal touch, however small, can make a huge difference and set you apart from the crowd.

5. What vintage/thrifted piece do you suggest every man invest in?
Something that you know you won’t see anybody else wearing.

Photography skills

6. Fashion is in a state of flux now. One of the things that seems to be happening is the dissolution of the trend. While there are still seasonal trends, more and more designers and consumers are choosing to ignore them or going to extremes to interpret them. What do you think the implications are of the decreased importance of trends?
I think it shows the increase of people developing their own personal style. With the rise of fashion and style blogs, I think that it’s showing more people that they have the power to be stylish without blindly following trends. Blogs have given people more confidence in their sense of style by encouraging us to think for ourselves and to really tap into our personal style.

Love the colors and the light!

7. If you could suggest one thing to make the world of corporate fashion more sustainable, what would it be?
I’m not very familiar with the production side of the industry, but anything that is environmentally friendly I’m for! I read that some major fast-fashion retailers dispose of their clothes if the clothes don’t sell, which I find appalling when those clothes could be put to good use.

8. If you could suggest one thing to make the everyday person’s life more fashionable and sustainable, what would it be?
Absolutely to shop vintage!

9. DIY? Are you a fan? Any examples of stuff you’ve made/upcycled?
I’m a fan of DIY, but I’m terrible at it myself. I’ve been working on customizing some jeans lately that’ll turn up on the blog sooner or later. I really admire bloggers, like Camille from Childhood Flames and Zana from Garbage Dress, who have created some really cool things on their own.

10. Loved your post on (un)Fashion. Does that whole concept relate at all to the sustainable fashion movement?
Sure, most of the styles featured in the book certainly aren’t from big factories or they’re recycled, literally, like the canned fish bracelet.

"(un)fashion"

11. Personally, I entered the field of fashion thinking it was completely superfluous and decorative. My opinion has definitely changed. What do you think makes fashion important and significant – for you personally and for humanity in general?
I’ve always viewed fashion up there with all the major forms of art like painting and architecture. A beautifully designed gown or a perfectly styled outfit takes just as much creative energy and deserves to be recognized as such. For me, fashion and style reaches far beyond what we’re wearing day to day. It is of course also a very important part of history, evident in such movements such as the counterculture of the 1960s and the Roarin 20s.

"relics from a post-apocalyptic earth"

12. Do you have a favorite piece of clothing that you love, but no one else seems to “get”?

I’m happy to say that none of my favorite pieces have raised any real negative responses – more along the lines of quizzical!

13. What do you think the definition of “personal style” is?
I think the definition of personal style is the expression of innate style through the way one talks, walks, and of course, the way they dress!

We <3 Denim on Denim! Thanks again Cruz! Have a good weekend everyone!!

PRPS for women

Lately denim has become all about time travel. What’s in right now? Workman’s jeans, greasy, paint-splatterd. Straight from the 30s. What else? Jeans so frayed and patched they look like they survived some major wars. Actually, the jeans are brand new. Denim manufacturers “cheat time” by pulling out the heavy artillery when it comes to “finishing” the jeans. The problem with that is all the cool finishes and washes, distressing, fading, bleaching, splattering, etc. take a huge toll on the environment, since the mechanical processes devised to replicate authentic aging are almost always super heavy on chemicals, energy and water  (hence the term “wash”).

But I’ll be the first to admit that denim has got me wrapped around its finger. I’ve given up a lot of things, but jeans? The epitome of cool? Luckily, I don’t have to! Even as we speak, clever people out there are busily trying to figure out ways to make denim “personalization” more environmentally friendly. Today we profile the past and future of jeans that want to look 50 yrs. older than they really are.

Hand Distressed Denim from PRPS

PAST:  PRPS Denim’s motto is “Bruised, Never Broken.” PRPS cotton is organically grown in Africa, then woven on vintage old school shuttle looms in Japan, by small artisanal family owned mills. Any distressing happens by hand, often taking over 6 hours to complete. These are jeans done the way we used to do things in the good ol’ days. Props to PRPS!

M+F G ad campaign

FUTURE: Marithe + Francois Girbaud (warning: sound and super Flash heavy) uses WattWash technology to distress their jeans. Using lasers instead of water, they reduce their water use from 170 liters of water to 5. Here’s a cool video that shows some of the applications of using a laser – to cut, bleach, and distress. You’ll have to sit through the first half of the (short) video, but stick it out – it’s worth it.

And here’s something for all you DIYers out there- I have distressed jeans using a cheese grater and a Dremel – worked pretty well. Anyone have any tips for DIY jeans distressing? Do share them please! Till Friday! XO!

Wow #1

Did you know I used to be an astrophysicist? True story, till I found my true calling deciphering this funny thing called fashion. So you can only imagine how beyond thrilled I was to stumble upon (no not the web thingy) this stylish gal’s unique vision.

Hubble Image

Designer Shabd (cool name!) Simon-Alexander creates very limited edition collections inspired by Hubble telescope photos of worlds being born and stars dying.  Her garments are US made and totally hand-dyed in wonderful interpretations of the dreamy and abstract Hubble images by Shabd herself!

Wow #2

Wow #3

Strongly influenced by  minimalist art, quiltmaking, and the folk costume tradition of beginning one dress with the remnants from the last, she cites a strong connection to sustainable values:

“I am inspired by people who live in a self-sustaining manner, growing plants and raising animals for food and clothing fibers, building their homes, and trading locally for what they can’t make themselves. I love the idea of investing your time and energy into one outfit that you make from start to finish, shearing the wool from the sheep on your farm, spending months weaving it into an intricate pattern that tells the story of where you live, your family history, and your own personal tastes, and then creating a garment that you wear every day, working, cooking, to the market, to prayer, until the threads become bare. I don’t have sheep and I don’t weave my own fabric (yet), but I do make outfits that I wear every day!”

Wow for guys too!

Wow # (what was it?) 5, I think

So beautiful! She uses awesome fabrics – organic cottons and sumptuous silks plus immaculate finishing as well. Get it at Shabd!

Have a Monderful Monday all! XO!

BigWardrobe.com

Billed as the world’s number 1 clothing recycling site, BigWardrobe.com is a huge online clothing swap, with thousands of members and items online. You can sell or trade your clothes with other members. I thought this would be a logical continuation from the post Wednesday, since the site calls attention to it’s eco-motivations, “…there’s also a HUGE environmental benefit. This is because millions of tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill sites around the world every year. For example, in the UK alone (the home of Bigwardrobe HQ), the figure is 2m tonnes, which represents nearly 4% of all the waste in Britain that is sent to landfill annually. This scenario is repeated across the planet. So, by recycling your unwanted clothes (and other items), you can help safeguard the environment!” Sweet.

All found on bigwardrobe.com - including thigh-high loubs!

I imagine doing this locally would also be awesome. You know how Etsy has a “shop local” feature? It would be great to see a swap site with the same!

And in case you were wondering what this had to do with Vintage Frursdays, there’s plenty of vintage (and designer) stuff to check out at BigWardrobe! Have a great weekend everyone! XO!

You feel pretty good when you schlep a trash bag full of clothing to your local Goodwill, right? It’s like recycling your clothes, minus the handy receptacle.

But what happens when you drop off the bag? I wish I could make some really cheesy 70s style educational film about this, where the camera is actually in the trashbag as it gets slung around but alas…I will use the power of words instead. And this handy image:

This is what happens.

First, it is important to realize that thrift stores are not in the business of selling clothing so much as earning money for their charity. If they’re in a good place financially, they’ll be more picky about what goes out on the floor. Only about 55%* of the clothing donated even makes it onto the sale floor at a thrift store.

Once on the floor, only about 20% of the clothing actually sells. So one fifth of one half actually does what we imagine is the logical thing for a thrift store garment to do. What do the 90% of other clothing donations do???

Overseas clothing stall

Some thrift stores, such as Savers and the Salvation Army sell or donate unsellable garments to developing countries to companies called “rag dealers.” Here the clothing is sorted further according to grade and destination and distributed to the rag dealer’s buyers. Between 1999 and 2003, the United States exported nearly 7 billion pounds of thrift store cast-offs; that’s 7 billion pounds of stuff that escaped a landfill.

Clothing that didn't escape

Second-hand clothing represents a small portion of global clothing trade – less than half a percent, but for certain countries, notably in sub-saharan Africa, imported thrift store rejects constitute over 30% of total imports by value and over 50% by volume.

So the T-shirt you donated last month may now be in Ghana laid out in a market stall. Just sayin.’

As for the garments that aren’t sold, either to US consumers or overseas, thrift stores bale the clothing and sell it to textile recyclers. Here the garments are sorted based only on one factor: absorbability. Garments that are absorbable are made into industrial and cleaning wipes. The rest (approx. half, mostly made of synthetic fibers) are carted off to landfills.

Industrial wipe manufacturing

Who knew that it got so complicated? What you see in your local Goodwill is only the tip of the iceberg! And what would happen if, instead of shipping so much overseas (which creates about 100,000 jobs in sorting and distribution) we kept the clothing here and kept the jobs here?

CHECK OUT OUR FACEBOOK FOR THE WINNER OF THE PoNcHo! And for an exclusive promotion from BIBICO!!!

*Thanks to Gail Baugh of PeopleWearSF for alerting me to this issue and providing me with much of this information and stats. References will be published in a comment.

Nieves Ruiz, of Bibico was kind enough to share her thoughts on sustainable fashion with Green By Design! Bibico produces classical garments with a clever twist that appeal to a wide age range and are all made by small cooperatives of native women in India and Nepal. Speaking with Nieves was awesome; she was so warm, forthright and excited! Here’s what she had to say:

On working with a Nepalese knitting co-op:

One of Bibico's sewers

Nieves explains that her first collection was for summer and to develop it she worked with a cooperative in India. When winter rolled around, however, it turned out that India wasn’t the best country to turn to – simply because it’s never really winter there. It was difficult to find winter fabrics so Nieves started researching and discovered that Nepal had a very strong knitting tradition, plus it was fairly close to India. It turns out Nieves does research the way everyone else does: on the internet! The WFTO referred her to a large fair-trade group in Kathmandu that was unfortunately already fully engaged with People Tree but the Kathmandu group was able to refer her to smaller co-ops in Nepal.

Bibico Spring 2010

Nieves told us that at the onset she spent two months in Nepal, really getting to know the women who would be knitting for her, living and working with them. At first, she chose 15 styles simple enough for the women to learn. There was a definite learning curve, from things as simple as learning how to read each others handwriting to getting the women to understand the way she wanted the garments to look and feel. The women spoke little or no english but by the end of her time with them, Nieves says it feels as though they were family.

While the women were learning to understand Nieves’ patterns and vision, Nieves learned a few things about the Nepalese culture herself. She recalls whipping off her “jumper” to try on a sample.  She was astounded at how nervous and giggly the Nepalese women got at the sight of her in a cami! “For god’s sake, girls! I have to try the garments! I’m not selling bananas! They thought I am a “cheap girl.” Nowadays Nieves goes to Nepal every four or five months. As she begins to understand her workers better and better and vice versa, little by little she needs to spend less time.

On producing for Topshop:

Such an awesome sailor dress/tunic! Totally my summer uniform.

Nieves is in the unique position of being a sustainable designer working with a fast fashion powerhouse, Topshop. In fact, she started her design career at Zara, the poster child of fast fashion.

When she compares her career at Zara to Bibico, she notes that one of the major differences is how much time she spends designing. She likens Zara to a biscuit factory, where 80 different styles per week were churned out and estimates that 75% of her time there was spent designing. For Bibico, she spends maybe 1%. The rest is spent with her workers, marketing, and generally running the business. In any case, the design process is very different. For Bibico, she always has to keep in mind what her co-ops are capable of and try to balance that with fashion-forward yet enduring designs.

Love everything! The loose weave crochet, the zip, the colors...

Nieves recalls how buying clothes 20 years ago differed from today. Today, consumers are out of control! Girls think nothing of buying several dresses a week, or several tops in one shopping trip. Compare that to going shopping only when the season changed, for only a few key, quality garments that you actually saved up for!

With fast fashion, consumers are lost, the pace is too fast, trends don’t have a chance to clearly articulate before they are swept aside. The quality of the garments is so low that they are disposed of after only a few uses. Nieves compares fast fashion to fast food. You buy in response to an immediate craving, wolf down the food, and five minutes later feel sick and regretful. The good news is she feels that consumers are not satisfied with fast fashion and are looking for a more satisfying, meaningful experience.

Cute cotton sweater hand-knitted in Nepal

She admits there is a very real disconnect between fast fashion and sustainability. Topshop will demand more product, and they have a hard time understanding why the production process of ethical fashion is so much slower than the uber-speeds they are used to. With a note of exasperation in her voice, Nieves explains that she can’t just shoot an email to India and have a shipment the next day. When Topshop haggles for a cheaper price, she has to explain that each of her garments took six hours to knit by hand. “It is what it is,” says Nieves in a stalwart tone.

Another perfect look from Bibico Spring 2010

On transparency:

At first, Nieves was reluctant to share the story behind Bibico. She thought people would find her self-righteous. She didn’t want to give the impression that she thought “the fair trade community are the little gods of the fashion industry and will save us.” However, it turned out that people wanted a story! The more they know about the garment and who made it, the more special it will be. So Nieves is attempting to produce visual documentaries, but the Nepalese are very camera shy…

On her style:

A little vintage, feminine, chic. Wearable, easy, practical. For a wide range of ages. She focuses on good, quality basics that are easy to coordinate, but gives them a little personality with fun details. She cites a slight vintage influence as one of her signatures. Her new collection for spring, which debued just a few days ago is influenced by outdoor beach style!

We'll take one of everything.

On her next move:

Eventually, Nieves wants to switch over to organic cotton, but is still unable to find fun prints and “interesting” organic fabrics. She is wary of all the new fibers due to the fact that the manufacturing processes are still very dependent on water and continue to use multiple chemicals and maintains that the only fiber that approaches true sustainability is wool, since the sheep regrow it after they’re sheared.

As far as taking on new markets, she wants to start doing children’s wear, because “everything always looks good on kids because they always look so cute!”

And she eventually wants to sell in America, but finds the American response to sustainable fashion lukewarm. (We’re trying to change that, obvi!)

Thanks so much, Nieves!

Printed maxi dresses. A 60s classic.

1967 US Vogue

Gorgeous caramel/black reversible maxi dress from Big Yellow Taxi Vintage

Big Yellow Taxi

Strong shouldered beautifully detailed blazer. An 80s classic.

US Vogue 1982 Iman

Scalloped Shoulder Jacket from Prance and Swagger

Prance and Swagger

The wool poncho. A 70s classic.

Vogue Italia 1971

70s Hooded Poncho from the Bea Project

The Bea Project

Leopard print dress. An 80s classic.

US Vogue 1982

Puff Sleeves and Peplum! From Midnight Flight

Midnight Flight

Bold and bright geometries. An 80s classic.

Paris Vogue 1980 YSL Iman

80s geometric blouse from Coldfish

Coldfish

Today’s giveaway is for one of these items! We’ll announce the item via twitter/facebook at the end of the day, so if you aren’t following/aren’t a fan of us yet, you should! Once we announce the item you’ll have through the end of Monday to enter the giveaway! XO!

(I grabbed today’s editorial images from the Fashion Spot, btw. )

For instance, second hand clothing. Its not the most glamorous. Its much more fun writing about the newest fiber made from recycled soda straws or buffalo grass or what have you, but the bottom line is, no matter how “green” new stuff is, energy still went into producing it from scratch.

Polyester scraps were recycled into a quilt

Recently, I had the chance to sit down with Gail Baugh, one of San Francisco’ s sustainable fashion leaders and she shared some interesting information with me. Gail is a veritable font of knowledge – please expect many more posts inspired by her research!

I wanted to discuss new fiber technology, since a truly sustainable fiber is kind of like the Holy Grail of green fashion to me. Little did I know, there was an answer right under my nose! Good ol’ polyester!

Polyester staple fiber - before it is spun into yarn

Did you know that most polyester clothing today is made from “new” polyester, made from oil? However, polyester is totally recyclable and the technology exists to do it! Furthermore, there is enough polyester clothing out there, especially if we count all the poly in landfills, that if we were to strop producing new polyester, we could recycle all the unwanted polyester and have more than enough to meet demand!

Some of the most awesome vintage fabrics are 100% polyester!

Polyester doesn’t degrade when you recycle it (melt it down, remove impurities, and remake the fibers) so this could go on ad infinitum. Plus, recycling polyester uses 70% less energy than making new polyester. And as we all know, polyester is very versatile! It can be silky, fleecy, woven, knit…

Had to throw this 70s ad in! When polyester was first invented, it was patented under the name "Dacron." You'll see these are dacron pants if you look closely.

So, why isn’t this happening?

A few reasons. First of all, recycling is still a habit in the making for many. And while there are more and more colored bins on my curb, I still don’t see one for polyester – or for unwanted clothing for that matter.

Secondly, most clothing is not 100% polyester. A lot of the time, different fibers are blended – wool is “diluted” with polyester, or a poly/nylon blend is used which renders the polyester unrecyclable. Even if the garment fabric is 100% polyester, the trims (zippers, buttons, etc.) most likely are not. But polyester zippers and buttons DO exist.

Polyester fiber production line

What I’m trying to say is, this is TOTALLY possible. We need to get on it. I hereby move we start the polyester recycling campaign immediately! Hear, hear! XO, all – ttyF!