Reem Alasadi SS/AW 2010

As long as we’re patting backs, today Reem Alasadi deserves mad props for her complex, deconstructed designs and unusual take on how to make fashion more sustainable. Her style is part Comme des Garçons, part Rodarte, part over-the-top costume-y camp, but also part hauntingly beautiful.

Iraqi born, London bred Reem Alasadi bills herself as “the intelligent choice on planet fashion.”

Reem Alasadi SS/AW 2010

Alasadi designs couture pieces from reworked and salvaged garments. The true genius of Reem is “integrity and originality, she manages to put together the most surprising elements and somehow they always work.  Mixing metaphors is Reem’s signature style, a delicate Victorian slip sewn onto an army jacket, trimmed with antique lace and fur.  Such is the artistry of their construction and that it is often almost impossible to tell if her clothes are antique or original.”

Reem Alasadi SS/AW 2010

Reem Alsadi is definitely a well-kept secret on the fashion circuit – can’t believe I hadn’t found her before! Imagine – she was asked to be the first non-Japanese Designer to show at Japan Fashion Week! Quel honor!

Reem isn’t just a fashion genius though – she’s also a very tactical eco-warrioress! Consider: For London Fashion Week Reem instigated a revolutionary new way of showing a fashion collection by combining two seasons on one runway. Breaking the antiquated tradition of Spring Summer/Autumn Winter Reem showed both seasons simultaneously.

Reem Alasadi SS/AW 2010

Reem believes that if all designers adopt the one runway/two season’s approach our carbon footprint will decrease by half! Reem explains: “Imagine the collective impact of our huge international fashion carbon footprint. By changing the way we do things we have a chance to be more creative and more productive. We can respect the earth’s resources but also own time, energy and creativity. By showing both seasons I can spend more time creating and the buyers can budget in advance and everybody works in a much calmer and more focused fashion.”

Reem Alasadi SS/AW 2010

I love how out of the box Reem’s thinking is – she shows there are more ways to be eco-friendly than to use organic textiles or go fair-trade – not that those are bad – not by any means, but there is such a multitude of solutions out there – and this is a very creative one!

Spring-y pants by ZS

Zachary’s Smile offers a large collection of women’s vintage fashions (yay!) as well as unique clothing by emerging designers. Today, Zachary’s Smile has two New York locations (and an online shop coming soon!) and three distinct private label collections, which I think is a really smart business model for designers who are unwilling to make the total leap to sustainable design. It’s a good reminder it doesn’t have to be all or nothing. Do what you can, take baby steps. But do something, no matter how small. Take the first step.

Moroccan Pants by ZS

White Label by ZS doesn’t actually source vintage clothing or dead-stock fabric as material, but is often inspired by vintage designs reminiscent of Anthropologie.

Cute summer dress by ZS

Where Zachary’s Smile really makes our eyes smile though is with their remake/remodel collection. Designs in this collection are made from a combo of new fabric and recycled clothing, making each piece unique and well, a little greener, if you’re looking for a cute something to wear out to the pub!

remake/remodel garments - trimmed with vintage scarves!

My favorite terrarium of all time

I came across Hayes’ work a while ago and it was so inspiring it made me create my own terrariums. It takes a master hand to nurture such a tiny and fragile ecosystem and Paula does it with an artist’s élan. But seeing her living necklaces really got me thinking. About how  when you get right down to it, fashion and sustainability are at total loggerheads.  One wants rapid change, newness, never ending consumption, the other wants something that sustains itself, that completes itself, that is at peace with itself. Fashion thrives on tension and turn-over, sustainability on the exact opposite.

Living necklaces

We get rid of clothes because we get bored or they go out of style. But what about a living fashion? A garment that functioned like an ecosystem, that evolved a bit each day, that never lost your interest because it passed through seasons, breathed, lived, surprised you with its tenacity the way life does? A dress that responded to you, that existed in a symbiotic relationship with you, its host? Maybe a dress that functioned on a similar principle to Legos? What if garments were made of basic and infinitely rearrangeable components, and to rock the newest strong shoulder trend, instead of buying a whole new wardrobe, you buy a pair of sleeves that use some awesome new bonding technology to replace sleeve on your existing garments?

Love the asymmetry

Maybe this dress would somehow metabolize your sweat and turn it into a delicate perfume, the way trees take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen? Maybe in the winter it would grow thicker and in the spring it would bloom – however you can imagine a dress doing that? Maybe it would respond to your moods.

Living necklace close-up

Maybe it would be less fantastical but still cool: a time release dye that gradually turns a white dress blue or pink or some pattern that only time will tell? Or skins that could be downloaded onto a fabric covered with pixels.  How much fun is this to think about?

I did come across a designer who created garments that would respond to the weather – check it here.

All right people – I need your ideas! What would “living fashion” look like to you? Go crazy, go sci-fi, go for the gusto. Always go for the gusto. Especially on Mondays.

Living poetry

What I just found recently, however, was UO documenting their Urban Renewal adventures on their blog!  In my head, one of the key aspects of a Green business is their openness to transparency and sharing what’s going on “backstage” with the interested consumer. And UO does a great job of doing just that! Check out some of these images:

LA "rag house" where unwanted garments are baled

In the background, the jeans that get turned into cut-offs

Sharing a vintage score - coat by highly coveted designer Koos

In keeping with the UO theme today, I thought I’d pick some UO trends and try to locate similar items on Etsy. See what you think!

T R E N D: white//eyelet//zipper

MONTANA SNOW VINTAGE

T R E N D: lace//blouse//cream

OH LEOLUCA

T R E N D: nautical//breton stripes//sailor

STARFRUKT

T R E N D: 80s//open back//floral//sundress

MIMI’S GAMINE

T R E N D: open back//safari//80s

THRIFTY BIRD VINTAGE

Have a great weekend and don’t forget to spring forward! XO!

The whole point of the book is that instead of trying to make design “less bad” by awkwardly retrofitting existing models and designs we should aim for a product that is so “good” that not only does it not contribute to the degradation of the earth but it nourishes and gives back to it’s environment – like a tree.

Copenhagen Sustainable Fashion Show Inspiration

The authors outline two different types of product which are explained in more detail here: A product of service and a product of consumption.

A product of consumption is defined as “Products [which] typically dissipate into the environment through the course of their use. They are designed so their degradation products (which result from digestion, abrasion, dilution in air, water or soil, etc.) can support the biological systems they reach. As defined biological nutrients, they are absorbed by and further nourish organisms and ecosystems.” One general example the authors give in the book is a running shoe whose sole is made of some harmless biodegradeable material which enriches the soil as it abrades.

What would this look like if we’re talking about clothing? The 2009 Copenhagen Sustainable Fashion Show made some interesting inroads. Many designers approached the problem of sustainability by making nontoxic clothes designed to compost quickly. There was a lingerie line embedded with seeds designed for burial and cultivation, clothes made from biodegradable jersey, and a few designers chose to use a “fabric” made from biodegradable vegetable starch, designed to compost after 3 or so wears.

Apocalyptic but poetic

{BTW – the images for this post were created as inspiration by the winner of the show, Tobias Noe Harboe. Harboe created a story wherein 6 scientists from a desolate future travel back in time to try to alter the destructive course the industrial revolution sets into motion. Kind of apocalyptic, but also kind of Alice in Wonderland, right?}

What about fashion as a product of service? “Products of service are typically stable during their use. They are made of defined technical nutrients. After use, they are available again as defined technical nutrients after mechanical or chemical dismantling. Tracking and collecting products of service for technical nutrient recovery is assured by their inclusion in a service concept sales model. Under this model, the retailer of the product of service sells only the service the product provides and leases the materials which provide that service to the customer.”

we want to avoid this "cradle to grave" scenario

This is really great for consumers because it totally removes the responsibility of proper disposal. The company takes responsibility for its product from start to finish. Fashion as a product of service (POS) already sort of exists in some ways. Tuxedo and handbag rental services, for instance. Other companies such as Gap and Patagonia encourage you to bring in your old garments to the store. Gap is currently offering a promotion where if you bring in a pair of your old jeans, you’ll get 30% off a new pair. I don’t know what Gap is planning on doing with the jeans they get(*update – yes I do – they’re recycling them into insulation for homes in communities in need), but Patagonia, through its Common Threads program, has developed a recycling campaign for polyester fleece, where it actually recycles the fleece garments customers return to the store into new clothing.

k - these images aren't exactly uplifting, I know...

The bottom line is that for a truly sustainable POS, the product has to be pre-designed so that after the manufacturer reclaims it, the components are able to be recycled into a new product, ad infinitum, cradle to cradle to cradle. So taking the product back is only half of the model. The other half is reusing or recrafting it.

Has anyone else heard of other innovations in fashion as a product of service? Please share!

Also, I want to welcome our newest team member at Green By Design – Mira Torres will now be the voice behind all of our social media. Join the conversation at our Twitter and Facebook! Till Friday! XO!

De Haro by Remade

1. This is such an interesting concept! Would you mind sharing a little about your business model?

Basically, I find used, unwanted leather clothing and scraps and turn it into bags, using as many of the jacket details as possible. Each bag is one-of-a-kind. I sell on my website and to Barneys Coop.

2. How and where does production occur?

I’m a tiny company, so everything is made in my workshop – I have a couple of assistants who help with the sewing, but I design and touch every bag that is made.

3. What are some of the challenges/advantages of using recycled clothing as your material?

Every jacket that I receive is different (style, size, color), but that keeps it interesting and challenging – every bag that is made requires careful consideration and thought. Sometimes I get jackets that are dirty or musty – a challenge, but I’ve come up with ways of cleaning them. Some jackets are stained or worn more than others – which I actually think give the bag its character and make it so much more interesting than the perfectly stitched and replicated, brand new, “made in China” bags you will find in most department stores.

Alameda Clutch by Remade USA

4. How did you become interested in sustainable fashion – was there a defining moment, a key article or conversation?

I didn’t know it to be “sustainable fashion” at the time, but a few years ago, I met and heard Alex Steffan of Worldchanging.com speak and was very inspired – as well as seeing Chris Jordan’s “Portraits of Mass Consumption”…. I was embarrassed at the time, because I was making laptop bags in Asia from PVC. It was a good business for me, but I had no emotional connection to the products, nor did I feel very proud of them. They were made far away, by foreign hands. I have a real sense of pride in making something by hand, as well as engaging with my customers, who are usually so appreciative of what I do.

I spent a long time searching for environmentally sustainable materials, but couldn’t find any that were as durable (a very important sustainability trait) or luxurious or held its value like leather does… yet, as a vegetarian, I didn’t feel good about supporting the slaughter of animals. Used leather was really my only option.

5. Here’s a quote I came across in my research:

“‘It is only when a products meaning is firmly anchored in its materiality, that it can not be replaced at any time by another artifact with the same immaterial connotations. Things should direct attention towards themselves instead of just being a material embodiment of meaning.’ (Verbeek, P. Source: Hinte, E. 1997: 105) It is in this way that handmade objects can be more durable than those of mass-production. They have an intrinsic value: one that is centred on its materiality; any non-material connotations are directly related to the object’s material substance or its production. With such a direct link between object and meaning, the physical substance of the object becomes just as important as the connotations behind it: they are dependent on each other. Thus creating a physical attachment between user and product and in doing so improving the product’s durability. ‘ (Robert Hankey)

It definitely seems like Remade operates in a similar spirit. How does sentimentality and materiality inform/guide your work?

One of the most direct examples of sentimentality is when a customer sends me their jacket to be made into a bag. I have not had one customer send me a jacket that has not told me it’s history. Common themes are “long ago trips to Italy”, “belonged to a father or another loved one”. When I’ve talked to people, most have an article (or several) of clothing in their closets that they just cannot give away and it remains there as a reminder of a person or a time in their life, experiences. I find the stories give a product so much more value and importance than a brand new, store bought product. Materially, I always take into consideration the details of the jacket. I use pockets whenever possible.

Fillmore by Remade USA

6. What is one of the most rewarding/challenging moments Remade has experienced?

I love hearing back from customers when they receive the bag… I love the stories and to know that someone has such an appreciation for a bag that I’ve made them and that they will probably keep it forever – I’d love for my bags to become heirlooms with stories attached to them.

7. Why did you decide on sustainability as one of your principle values? What were your goals when you started?

I didn’t want to produce anything that might be damaging to the environment or that took advantage of the people making it. I also wanted to support local workers.

8. What do you think are some of the more major/directional developments in sustainable fashion right now?

Reuse, organic materials, recycled materials… I think reuse is the best option because there is no energy involved in manufacturing the material. it has already been developed and you are likely saving it from landfill or at least prolonging its life.

Mason Oxblood Clutch by Remade USA

9. Any designers you look to as role models/ leaders in the industry?

I don’t look at fashion for inspiration, my designs are very basic shapes that are inspired by ideas, function and material – and using waste scraps – thus the patchwork. I am however very inspired by Alabama Chanin’s business model and as I grow, I’d love to expand in that direction.

10. What are some obstacles in the fashion industry to going completely “green”?

People need to stay in business and they need people to buy new things every season. If fashion(trend) lasts a lifetime, it’s not really fashion, it’s more style. Quote from Coco Chanel: “Fashion fades, only style remains the same.” A completely green fashion industry might look like one where people bring their clothing (or drapes!) to a taylor to get fixed or repurposed each season or every couple years… imagine fashion as a “service” and no longer a product… also look at Molly Ringwald in Pretty in Pink or Scarlet O’Hara in Gone With the Wind…

Vintage scarves are used as lining!

11. If you could change one thing about your potential customer (the modern consumer of fashion in general) what would it be?

Stop buying cheap fast, discardable fashion. Buy things that last and support designers who put their heart into their work.

12. Personally, I entered the field of fashion thinking it was completely superfluous and decorative. My opinion has definitely changed. What do you think makes fashion important and significant – for you personally and for humanity in general?

I’m fascinated by how people’s personality and beliefs can be projected through their clothing choices – it’s very tribal. I think it only makes sense that sustainable fashion is gaining ground at a time when we are more concerned with the environment and what we eat than ever. There will be people who support sustainable fashion because it truly reflects their beliefs and there will be others who will buy a few key pieces because they signify that they are supporters in some way to this “conscious” way of living.

I can’t help but see parallels to William Morris’ Arts and Crafts movement in response to the Industrial Revolution. Our constant attachment to computers and the mass production and mass marketing of everything we consume is giving people a yearning for a slower way of living, eating, etc.

13. Do you have a favorite piece of clothing that you love, but no one else seems to “get”?

I love occasional vintage pieces because they are unique, inexpensive and usually made well, and can have memories attached – even if it is new to me, I still have a time reference associated with it. I have this awesome sequin butterfly top that I got at GoodWill in Queens, NY for $10 a few years ago… as soon as I saw it, I had a flashback to when I was about ten years old in the 80s, at a New Years Eve party with my parents and this glamourous friend of my mom’s was wearing a top very similar! The top always makes me feel glamourous! I also found an awesome little brown suede vest in my jacket searches – my mom calls it my “Howdy Doody vest”… I really love it!

14. What do you think the definition of “personal style” is?

Personal Style is the lasting image that a person crafts for their self. It has nothing to do with the trends of the season. It is about knowing what looks good on you and what makes you shine… from clothes to makeup and hair. It comes from within and is never a replica of what you see in a magazine. It complements your personality.

gorgeous

15. Sustainable fashion is definitely gaining momentum as a pivotal idea in fashion, but isn’t quite there yet. What frustrates you about the progress of sustainable fashion? On a more positive note, what are some steps forward you’ve noticed the industry take?

I don’t think the major fashion magazines are taking it very seriously (though it might be because there is not enough beautifully designed, sustainable clothes?) or that there is not as much money behind the brands as the big fashion houses. I don’t quite understand these designers who have their normal, “unsustainable” line and then they have a smaller, green line – it gives them press, but it seems like green washing to me. I find it awesome that sustainable fashion really is becoming its own movement – there are so many awesome blogs devoted to it and now “green” fashion weeks happening in NY and Portland…

Thanks so much for your thoughtful answers, Shannon! You’re our new handbag destination. BTW – You can also find Remade on Twitter and Facebook.

Recently, wandering around the webosphere, we stumbled upon a treasure trove of flea market oddities, stylish ensembles for the well dressed man, and the occasional post on (un)fashion. Intrigued, we got ahold of the blog’s author Cruz and were delighted to score an interview with a stylish, vintage-lovin’ mind! Cruz takes pictures of his forays into the flea market madness that is Long Beach, as well as posts outfit shots that make us rethink our previous assessment of menswear as, well, a teeny bit boring. Denim on Denim has definitely been added to our blogroll and daily reads! Thanks Cruz!

Cruz has style we envy.

1. Tell us about Denim on Denim and how you were inspired to start. And a little bit about yourself! Why is your style so awesome?
Well for starters I’m 17, I’m from Orange County, and I’m a junior in high school. I was inspired to start Denim on Denim because I wanted to share my point of view on fashion and style. I also wanted to take part in the online fashion community after reading the blogs of kids my age whose style I admired. I’m sure many suburban bloggers can relate to my unrequited love with fashion!
2. Who do you think are the great leaders/directional houses in fashion today?
I’ve always considered Nicolas Ghesquiere [of Balenciaga] to be one of those designers that designs for tomorrow, today. Miuccia Prada also seems to be able to make the fashion crowd move every which way with her collections.

Eagle boots - nice find!

3. What percentage of your clothes would you say are second-hand or pre-loved?
Definitely the majority of it!

4.  What attracts you to the flea market?
It’s a place with lots of inspiration, propositions, history, and bargains (which is great for someone on a shoestring budget like me). I’ve always seen them as a kind of junkyard of things that an alien race would have salvaged from our post-apocalyptic earth. You can find just about anything you need from anywhere and any time in history if you look hard enough!

A nice little slice of Americana

4. A lot of our readers are guys. What are some tips in terms of developing a personal style or look?
I think the best advice I can give for developing your own personal style is just to think about what you can add to your look that nobody else can. Your personal touch, however small, can make a huge difference and set you apart from the crowd.

5. What vintage/thrifted piece do you suggest every man invest in?
Something that you know you won’t see anybody else wearing.

Photography skills

6. Fashion is in a state of flux now. One of the things that seems to be happening is the dissolution of the trend. While there are still seasonal trends, more and more designers and consumers are choosing to ignore them or going to extremes to interpret them. What do you think the implications are of the decreased importance of trends?
I think it shows the increase of people developing their own personal style. With the rise of fashion and style blogs, I think that it’s showing more people that they have the power to be stylish without blindly following trends. Blogs have given people more confidence in their sense of style by encouraging us to think for ourselves and to really tap into our personal style.

Love the colors and the light!

7. If you could suggest one thing to make the world of corporate fashion more sustainable, what would it be?
I’m not very familiar with the production side of the industry, but anything that is environmentally friendly I’m for! I read that some major fast-fashion retailers dispose of their clothes if the clothes don’t sell, which I find appalling when those clothes could be put to good use.

8. If you could suggest one thing to make the everyday person’s life more fashionable and sustainable, what would it be?
Absolutely to shop vintage!

9. DIY? Are you a fan? Any examples of stuff you’ve made/upcycled?
I’m a fan of DIY, but I’m terrible at it myself. I’ve been working on customizing some jeans lately that’ll turn up on the blog sooner or later. I really admire bloggers, like Camille from Childhood Flames and Zana from Garbage Dress, who have created some really cool things on their own.

10. Loved your post on (un)Fashion. Does that whole concept relate at all to the sustainable fashion movement?
Sure, most of the styles featured in the book certainly aren’t from big factories or they’re recycled, literally, like the canned fish bracelet.

"(un)fashion"

11. Personally, I entered the field of fashion thinking it was completely superfluous and decorative. My opinion has definitely changed. What do you think makes fashion important and significant – for you personally and for humanity in general?
I’ve always viewed fashion up there with all the major forms of art like painting and architecture. A beautifully designed gown or a perfectly styled outfit takes just as much creative energy and deserves to be recognized as such. For me, fashion and style reaches far beyond what we’re wearing day to day. It is of course also a very important part of history, evident in such movements such as the counterculture of the 1960s and the Roarin 20s.

"relics from a post-apocalyptic earth"

12. Do you have a favorite piece of clothing that you love, but no one else seems to “get”?

I’m happy to say that none of my favorite pieces have raised any real negative responses – more along the lines of quizzical!

13. What do you think the definition of “personal style” is?
I think the definition of personal style is the expression of innate style through the way one talks, walks, and of course, the way they dress!

We <3 Denim on Denim! Thanks again Cruz! Have a good weekend everyone!!

PRPS for women

Lately denim has become all about time travel. What’s in right now? Workman’s jeans, greasy, paint-splatterd. Straight from the 30s. What else? Jeans so frayed and patched they look like they survived some major wars. Actually, the jeans are brand new. Denim manufacturers “cheat time” by pulling out the heavy artillery when it comes to “finishing” the jeans. The problem with that is all the cool finishes and washes, distressing, fading, bleaching, splattering, etc. take a huge toll on the environment, since the mechanical processes devised to replicate authentic aging are almost always super heavy on chemicals, energy and water  (hence the term “wash”).

But I’ll be the first to admit that denim has got me wrapped around its finger. I’ve given up a lot of things, but jeans? The epitome of cool? Luckily, I don’t have to! Even as we speak, clever people out there are busily trying to figure out ways to make denim “personalization” more environmentally friendly. Today we profile the past and future of jeans that want to look 50 yrs. older than they really are.

Hand Distressed Denim from PRPS

PAST:  PRPS Denim’s motto is “Bruised, Never Broken.” PRPS cotton is organically grown in Africa, then woven on vintage old school shuttle looms in Japan, by small artisanal family owned mills. Any distressing happens by hand, often taking over 6 hours to complete. These are jeans done the way we used to do things in the good ol’ days. Props to PRPS!

M+F G ad campaign

FUTURE: Marithe + Francois Girbaud (warning: sound and super Flash heavy) uses WattWash technology to distress their jeans. Using lasers instead of water, they reduce their water use from 170 liters of water to 5. Here’s a cool video that shows some of the applications of using a laser – to cut, bleach, and distress. You’ll have to sit through the first half of the (short) video, but stick it out – it’s worth it.

And here’s something for all you DIYers out there- I have distressed jeans using a cheese grater and a Dremel – worked pretty well. Anyone have any tips for DIY jeans distressing? Do share them please! Till Friday! XO!

Wow #1

Did you know I used to be an astrophysicist? True story, till I found my true calling deciphering this funny thing called fashion. So you can only imagine how beyond thrilled I was to stumble upon (no not the web thingy) this stylish gal’s unique vision.

Hubble Image

Designer Shabd (cool name!) Simon-Alexander creates very limited edition collections inspired by Hubble telescope photos of worlds being born and stars dying.  Her garments are US made and totally hand-dyed in wonderful interpretations of the dreamy and abstract Hubble images by Shabd herself!

Wow #2

Wow #3

Strongly influenced by  minimalist art, quiltmaking, and the folk costume tradition of beginning one dress with the remnants from the last, she cites a strong connection to sustainable values:

“I am inspired by people who live in a self-sustaining manner, growing plants and raising animals for food and clothing fibers, building their homes, and trading locally for what they can’t make themselves. I love the idea of investing your time and energy into one outfit that you make from start to finish, shearing the wool from the sheep on your farm, spending months weaving it into an intricate pattern that tells the story of where you live, your family history, and your own personal tastes, and then creating a garment that you wear every day, working, cooking, to the market, to prayer, until the threads become bare. I don’t have sheep and I don’t weave my own fabric (yet), but I do make outfits that I wear every day!”

Wow for guys too!

Wow # (what was it?) 5, I think

So beautiful! She uses awesome fabrics – organic cottons and sumptuous silks plus immaculate finishing as well. Get it at Shabd!

Have a Monderful Monday all! XO!

BigWardrobe.com

Billed as the world’s number 1 clothing recycling site, BigWardrobe.com is a huge online clothing swap, with thousands of members and items online. You can sell or trade your clothes with other members. I thought this would be a logical continuation from the post Wednesday, since the site calls attention to it’s eco-motivations, “…there’s also a HUGE environmental benefit. This is because millions of tonnes of discarded clothing goes to landfill sites around the world every year. For example, in the UK alone (the home of Bigwardrobe HQ), the figure is 2m tonnes, which represents nearly 4% of all the waste in Britain that is sent to landfill annually. This scenario is repeated across the planet. So, by recycling your unwanted clothes (and other items), you can help safeguard the environment!” Sweet.

All found on bigwardrobe.com - including thigh-high loubs!

I imagine doing this locally would also be awesome. You know how Etsy has a “shop local” feature? It would be great to see a swap site with the same!

And in case you were wondering what this had to do with Vintage Frursdays, there’s plenty of vintage (and designer) stuff to check out at BigWardrobe! Have a great weekend everyone! XO!