Making Sense of Scents |
Published by Claire Schneider under Green Living
You’re stressed out –- the economy’s free-fall is getting to you; those deadlines at work are impossible to meet; and the kids are home with gastric flu.
It would be so-o-o-o easy to reach for over-the-counter anti-stress drugs, but that’s not what you like. Or trust.
On the other hand, you’ve heard about the benefits of aromatherapy, including the oils’ efficacy in lowering stress. So you commit to going to the store after work to make your first purchase of an essential oil. See how it goes.
Oops. Once there, you face mysterious ranks of tiny bottles of all shapes, colors and sizes. Alice, where are you? You feel completely overwhelmed and don’t know where to begin.
The assistant is no help –- she tells you to sniff a few open testers, but when you do, they smell awful. You start to feel heady, perhaps even nauseous, at the aromatic onslaught. You take a deep breath and try to resist your inclination to rush out of the store.
Take another deep breath; you are not alone. When it comes to choosing essential oils, some simple and wholesome guidelines are available. Here are a few that you may follow.
- Consider the importance of a name. The Latin name should be stated because numerous varieties of the same plant exist. Why does it matter? Because the therapeutic qualities of the oil vary according to the chemical makeup of the given plant.
- What is the country of origin? This is important because, for instance, sandalwood (Santalum album) from India contains different compounds from those of sandalwood originating in Australia or Indonesia.
- Obtain your oils from the producer, if possible. The fewer people between the harvester and the seller, the better. Why? Adulteration of oils is commonplace. This generally takes place in two ways:
- The addition of vegetable or mineral oils; solvents and perfume materials; and cheaper oils, e.g., the addition of lemon oil (Citrus limon) to bergamot (Citrus bergamia).
- The addition of cheap synthetic oils.
- Avoid multi-level marketing companies. People involved in these enterprises are primarily motivated by financial gain; knowledge of the oils is secondary, and claims about their products are difficult to verify. And essential oils from this type of source tend to be significantly more expensive, which prices them beyond the reach of the general public.
- Purchase the essential oils undiluted. Also for profit motives, companies like to blend them with carrier oils such as sweet almond. We as consumers have no way of knowing how diluted they are and we are left wondering how much rose (Rosa damascena) really is inside that miniscule bottle sold for $60.
- If you buy from an aromatherapy company, make sure to determine how well, or if, they know the chemical composition of their oils. Ask if they are willing to provide you with a list of ingredients.
- Buy organic or wild-crafted when possible -– it’s better for you and for the environment.
- Educate yourself. Purchase an aromatherapy book or better still, take a class. These may be offered in your community, through massage schools or community colleges.
- Last tip: Trust your intuition. If you don’t like the smell of Lavender (as in my case) don’t buy it just because it’s supposed to be good for reducing stress.
Take lavender, for example (lavender frequently is the first oil someone buys, because of its aromatic appeal and versatility). If stress and headaches are the issue, look for Lavandula officinalis/angustifolia/vera, on account of its high ester content.
Lavandula latifolia/Spike lavender is better suited to treat respiratory conditions, owing to its higher levels of camphor.
There is also a hybrid of the two: Lavandin, or Lavandula x intermedia. This is commonly used in laundry detergents, as it tends to be the least expensive form of lavender.

The incentive to perform this kind of underhanded act lies in the potential for increase of profits. However, not only do these practices severely reduce the therapeutic benefits of essential oils, but they may introduce toxicity.
It’s true that rose oil is one of the most pricey but there is a reality-base behind that cost: if you consider that someone in Bulgaria rises at dawn, when the dew levels are just right, to pick 30 roses out of which is distilled a single drop of oil, you may realize that you are better off buying the undiluted oil and blending it yourself if you so choose.
Keep in mind too that tester bottles in stores often smell foul because they have been open for too long and the volatile oils have deteriorated.
So don’t give up when you are faced with the challenge of selecting oils. A little research and common sense go a long way. It’s empowering, after all, to be able to use these fragrant oils to enhance your health. Over time, you will be amazed at how you can incorporate them into your daily life.
Watch this space for more about the application of essential oils with regard to personal care, green housekeeping, and cooking. In the meantime, see the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy for more information on aromatherapy, including safety guidelines.
Claire Schneider is a U.K. trained practitioner and educator of aromatherapy. She lives in Santa Fe, New Mexico.
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[...] Green By Design » Making Sense of Scents [...]
Hi Claire,
I couldn’t help but think you used lavender as an example when talking about Latin names because of our recent communication about the breast formula. What a beautiful scene of your home with flowering lavender in the foreground!
Best,
Angela
Hi Angela,
Actually, I regularly include the importance of using the Latin names in my workshops. However, our discussions did remind me that doctors and other health care professionals often sell oils and/or provide information to the public when they lack the knowledge to do so. Consumers should be aware of this and take responsibility for learning about aromatherapy.