Published by Amy Lewis under Travel

On the flight from West Palm Beach to Marsh Harbour, Abaco, Bahamas, I was seated next to an experienced Bahamian visitor who was incredulous when I explained that we planned to eat only the fish we caught for our main meals during our 10-day stay on Scotland Cay. He predicted that we would go hungry (spear-fishing is very difficult and Bahamian regulations require that you be 200 yards from shore and no tanks or tethers are allowed).

He would have been surprised at our success; we were well-fed every night with each day’s catch, including yellowfin grouper, gray snapper, spiny lobster, French grunt, hogfish, mutton snapper, Queen triggerfish, squirrelfish, flounder, margate and jack-fish. My 15-year-old son even learned to spear-fish and caught three fish to help feed the 12 people staying at a beach house on Scotland Cay, a private island with no stores or restaurants. We were guests of the owners of the house, who have spear-fished every Christmas holiday since they built their retreat 25 years ago.

Scotland Cay is about two miles long, with a paved path that circles the island. Golf carts and rusty bikes are used for transportation. Cars are not allowed on the island, but private jets and airplanes use the landing strip that ends right at the tennis court.

We arrived on Christmas Eve in Marsh Harbour, met our friends at the airport and all piled into a taxi that took us to the Conch Inn, where we left our luggage while we shopped for groceries. Although our luggage was packed with food — a cooler held butter, cheese and other staples — fresh vegetables cannot be brought into the Bahamas. We purchased 16 loaves of bread at the Island Bakery and Kalik beer and wine at a local liquor store, loaded it all into another taxi and finally into the ferry that would take us to Scotland Cay, a half-hour boat ride. There, neighbors greeted us at the harbor with two golf carts and a trailer to haul our supplies to the house.

The kids immediately set out to find a suitable Christmas tree. A branch from a Caribbean Pine was decorated with lights, sand dollars and red ribbons. On Christmas morning we ate freshly baked cinnamon rolls. We opened presents that were small and appropriate for the place (fishing gloves, decks of cards, comic books) and then we swam, played tennis, and watched the guys spear-fish. For dinner, the grouper, jack-fish, squirrelfish, grunt and lobster were prepared as a Szechuan dish. Each day of our stay was similar, with only the meals changing…fish tacos, conch fritters, stir-fry fish, Thai green curry, ceviche, fish tempura and cioppino.

The ten days on the island went quickly, filled with activities for those who love water. When the winds were up, the waves were just right for body surfing; when the air was calm, the snorkeling was fabulous. My husband and son attempted bonefishing, a pursuit which fortunately was not intended to supply food. We rented a small boat for spear-fishing and for taking a day trip to Marsh Harbour to procure supplies and indulge in sightseeing at Hope Town.

Robert Bly might have approved of this vacation, in which manly men spear-fished with their sons, the women harvested coconuts and cooked, and the other manly men repaired appliances, bikes, golf carts, windows, toilets and the roofs that are in constant need of maintenance owing to the effects of wind and salt.

I felt very grounded and connected with the environment on this escape, which amounted to a sort of tribal experience. Paying attention to our surroundings was not just green, but absolutely key. While fishing, we had to be cautious of the reef sharks and strong ocean currents. A cistern provided the water supply to the house, so we had to be aware of our water use. It was satisfying to hear the cistern filling when it rained.

Details:

How to Get There:
Commercial flights from Florida to Marsh Harbour are available on Continental Airlines, American Airlines, Bahamasair, and US Airways.

Where to Stay:
If you don’t have a friend that invites you to stay at Scotland Cay, you can find accommodations at Marsh Harbour or Hope Town.

In Marsh Harbour:
The Conch Inn Hotel,
Abaco Beach Resort (upscale)

In Hope Town:
Hope Town Harbour Lodge
Tel. 1.866.611.9701

Dining:
Conch Inn Hotel for a grouper burger
Hope Town Harbour Lodge

Where to Rent Boats:
Rainbow Boat Rentals (cost $800/week plus gas)

Fishing Regulations

Amy Lewis is an avid outdoorswoman, environmentalist and hydrologist. Amy says she does not make a very good tourist when it comes to sightseeing, but prefers to experience how people live in different parts of the world. Her story on Christmas in the Abacos reflects her love of nature and deep respect for its wonders. Amy and her family have lived in Santa Fe, New Mexico, for more than 20 years. To read more stories like these, please visit beyonddoorwaystravel.com.