Published by Green by Design

A Green by Design Buying Guide – Linens Guide (PDF format)
Introduction

Green by Design offers this buying guide to assist consumers in choosing linens that are safe for themselves and the environment. Most linen products are made of the natural fibers such as cotton or the man-made fibers like polyester. However, the methods used to process both cotton and polyester pose a threat to humans and the environment.

Conventionally Processed Fabric

Most towels and bedding purchased each year in the US are made from conventionally-grown cotton. Although cotton is a natural fiber, when grown by conventional methods, it is subjected to numerous chemical processes and is laden with pesticides. Two billion pounds of synthetic fertilizers and 84 million pounds of pesticides are applied to cotton crops each year in the U.S.

According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, of the 15 most frequently used pesticides used on cotton crops, nearly half are considered possible, likely, probable, or known human carcinogens. These chemicals leach into the soil and run off into waterways creating hazardous effects on the environment and human health.

Cotton-based linens may be bleached with chlorine using a process that releases the cancer-causing agent dioxin into the atmosphere. Cotton textiles are also chemically treated with finishes that contain formaldehyde to reduce wrinkling Processing also allows formaldehyde fumes to be released into the air. Formaldehyde is known to cause watery eyes, runny noses, headaches, sore throats, fatigue, and respiratory ailments.

The environmental impact of polyester processing is no better. Linens made of or filled with polyester contribute to the depletion of petroleum, a non-renewable energy source. The production process also contributes to the consumption and ingestion of pollutants by humans and the release of pollutants into the environment.

Genetic Engineering

Conventional cotton poses an additional ecological threat. More than half of the cotton grown in the US comes from seeds that are genetically engineered (GE), which means they are modified by genetic material from another organism. GE cotton is typically engineered to produce an insect-killing toxin or to survive the spraying of pesticides that would normally kill the cotton plant, or both. At issue is whether most GE crops have been tested thoroughly enough to ensure that they are safe for the environment and human health. Evidence gathered thus far suggests that they are not.

Triclosan

Many manufacturers are working diligently to convince the public that they need antibacterial linens in order to stay healthy. These linens are treated with the antimicrobial chemical known as Triclosan. However, when Triclosan comes into contact with chlorinated water, chloroform, a probable human carcinogen, is formed. Triclosan also has a tendency to leach out of fabrics during washings. Studies have shown that it contributes to the creation of antibiotic-resistant bacteria that poses a threat to humans and the environment.

What Makes Linens ‘Green’?

Green linens are free of contaminants and are produced using methods designed to be safe in all aspects of the life cycle. Ideally, the embedded fiber should be free of pesticides and fertilizers, and the processing methods should produce no pollution or contamination.

Product Comparison

There are a variety of eco-friendly linen options available in the retail marketplace as shown below.

Comparison of Linen Fibers

Organic Cotton

Of the eco-friendly fiber alternatives to conventional cotton, organic cotton is the most widely available, with a wide range of linen products sold at a number of retailers. Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. Unlike half of the cotton grown in the US, it is not genetically modified. Some organic cotton is chlorine bleached, but unbleached linens and linens bleached with hydrogen peroxide are available. The dyeing process may be polluting when they include the use of dyes that contain toxic heavy metals or carcinogens. Vegetable-based dyes or FoxFiber color-grown organic cotton, which are naturally bred to grow in shades of brown, green and beige, provide a better alternative.

Untreated Cotton

Untreated cotton is conventionally grown cotton that is unbleached and processed without chemical finishes or dyes. Untreated cotton can be less expensive than organic cotton. Often referred to as green cotton, untreated cotton is a budget friendly alternative. Since untreated cotton is made from conventionally grown cotton, untreated cotton linens are not as eco-friendly as their organic counterparts.

Bamboo and Wood Pulp

In recent years, bamboo has become an eco-friendly wonder fiber, appearing in everything from flooring to clothing. Bamboo is a fast-growing grass that consumes few natural resources. It is naturally resistant to pests and grows without the aid of chemical fertilizers. A chemically intensive production process is typically required for bamboo. However, mechanically processed bamboo, which is a processing method where a machine rather than chemicals is used to convert the raw material into pulp, is available. Sheets and towels made from 100 percent bamboo can be hard to find. Some bamboo linens are made of a blend of bamboo and conventional cotton. The label should specify whether the product is a 100% bamboo product or a bamboo blend. Like bamboo, wood pulp is naturally resistant to pests, but the harvest of wood pulp contributes to deforestation. Wood pulp is softer and silkier than bamboo or cotton.

Hemp and Linen

Much like bamboo, hemp and linen bedding and towels are made from plants that grow quickly and require few synthetic pesticides in order to thrive. The use of hemp and linen in sheets dates back hundreds of years. The durability of the fabric is attributed to the sale of antique hemp and linen sheets at antique stores, flea markets and estate sales. New linen and hemp sheets are widely available online.

Summary

Regardless of which material you choose for your linen, you should seek linens that bear the Skal EKO Sustainable Textile or Oeko-Tex certification. While the Oeko-Tex certification indicates that the finished product is free of lingering harmful chemicals that may leach off in the wash, the Skal certification process is far more stringent. Skal examines the fabric in every part of its lifecycle, from the methods used to harvest the plant, to the dying and bleaching processes used for fabric.

Sources

www.epa.gov

www.thegreenguide.com

www.treehugger.com

www.thedailygreen.com